Hanoi

Hanoi was a hectic whirlwind of cultural experiences. We based ourselves in the historical heart of the thousand year old city. The Old Quarter was originally occupied by 36 different guilds, each to their own street. Despite expansion and development the streets are still roughly distinguished by specific trades or merchandise, and named appropriately. Possibly the most well known is Hang Gai (silk street).

Crossing the roads required skill and nerves of steel. The best recommendation is to walk s-l-o-w-l-y so scooters can judge your position and weave their way around you. Smaller intersections are void of traffic lights and an everyone-has-right-of-way policy applies, as long as you use your horn liberally as you blindly enter the busy intersections. If the streets weren't already crowded enough, sections were converted into markets on the weekends.

In a city with a population of 6.5 million and over two million scooters, noise pollution is rife. This was added to by twice daily loudspeaker public service broadcasts, sure to wake even the deepest sleeper.
To the south of the Old Quarter, Hoan Kiem Lake provided a peaceful retreat. That is if you could avoid the many hawkers that incessantly pressed foreigners with souvenirs and shoe polishing services.

Matching tops and pants (that looked suspiciously like pajamas) seemed the popular fashion choice for females. Men donned green army pith helmets. Handbag-sized dogs also seemed like a popular accessory.

Much of Vietnamese life is lived on the street edge. People of all ages sit at street side tables drinking ca phe (coffee) and bia hoi (beer). Infants are nursed and entertained on the footpaths. Dishes are cleaned in the gutters. Food can be found in abundance, often stacked high on bicycles or in baskets balanced over shoulders on a bamboo pole.

For tasty meals, street food was most rewarding but risky when you couldn't interpret what you were ordering. A favourite of ours was Bun Cha (barbecued pork served in steaming bowl of broth with a bunch of fresh herbs and a mound of vermicelli rice noodles). All served at kindergarten sized tables and chairs as is customary in Vietnam.

Bun Dau

We walked around the Ho Chi Minh Complex observing the impressive Presidential Palace and the surrounding gardens, but were disappointed to find the Mausoleum closed.  It was however, still an impressive site from the exterior especially with the uniformed men on guard.  

Hanoi had served us well as a travel hub to Halong Bay and Sa Pa.  By our third visit we could navigate the busy winding roads efficiently without a map, taking record time to reach our favorite restaurants and bakeries.